Wiki Moulding - Home Improvement Store - quality MDF and wood Moulding
Wiki Moulding - Knowledge Base and Moulding Product Listing. Serving greater Los Angeles area in Southern California, we sell quality MDF and wood Moulding at discounted price, deliver to all local area using our trucks and paint the moulding in our shop with air-spray equipment so that your home stays clean and the moulding has a smooth finish. $$
1312 E Saint Gertrude PL,,
Santa Ana,
CA, USA
800-985-1844
800-985-1845
Wiki Schooling page provides moulding information. Click any question for answer.
To learn more, Please call 800-985-1844
TOTAL RECORD = 77
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Types of Moulding :
Answer:
Base Mouldings serve as the finishing cover as the wall joins the floor. Many of the panel mouldings will also make two-piece baseboard applications.
Base Shoe Mouldings typically connect the base moulding to hardwood floor to finish the look and eliminate drafts.
Casings are employed as trim elements around doors and windows. In addition, they are often used as larger chair rails or linear banding around a room. A fluted casing, often with beads on the reverse side, is a popular style for classic and Victorian home decor as shown above.
Crown and Cornice Mouldings are applied where the wall joins the ceiling. They are used to add more interest and design depth to a room. Cornice mouldings themselves can be enhanced by adding other trim pieces, particularly effective when used in larger rooms with high ceilings.
Corner Blocks and Rosettes are used at the corners of a top casing. Paired with plinths, they can set the perfect frame shape to a door.
Door Header, Pediment and Top Cap are found above doors and windows. They run horizontally on top of mitered casings to give height to the opening or at the head jamb of an opening with casing. Door headers can also be used in fireplace mantle applications.
Plinth Blocks are used at the edge where a baseboard joins the casing of a doorway. Lending themselves to both stock and custom applications, they can add the right finishing touch to a dramatic entrance.
Panel Mouldings are used to form panels on ceilings and walls and enhance cornice applications. In addition, they can also be used as finer chair rails or with baseboard caps to form two- piece baseboards.
Chair Rails (not shown) are usually applied to a wall horizontally, approximately 30 to 40 inches parallel to the floor. Traditionally found in dining rooms, they protect walls from sliding furniture. Chair rails are also used as panel mouldings to trim the tops of panels on walls or ceilings, and provide a “wainscot” appearance.
About Moulding and Trim :
Answer:
Moulding and trim work have adorned our homes and public buildings for several hundred years. Moulding and trimwork provide our living spaces with a finished look, and are a means
to make an aesthetic statement or artistic expression. Mouldings also serve a useful purpose by connecting the different elements of building such as wall surfaces to flooring, and door and window openings. Early plaster often cracked where the ceilings met the wall, making crown and cornice mouldings a useful decoration. Early construction techniques allowed moisture to collect in the lower parts of a room or house, creating a need for wainscoting and other finished wall treatments. Chair rails and base mouldings protect walls from sliding furniture and other wear. Different
eras and architectural styles had different needs and uses for mouldings. Dish rails and picture rails allowed the emerging middle classes in Europe and America a way to display art and decorative household items.
Redwood/Cedar/Exterior Treated Pine :
Answer:
Redwood, Cedar, and Exterior Treated mouldings are used primarily in exterior applications where durability is important. Primed and fingerjointed exterior mouldings help reduce
the cost of the finished product by saving time and money
in the manufacturing process. Solid redwood is used in both exterior and interior applications where the natural look or the durability of redwood is important.
Alder / Knotty Alder :
Answer:
Alder mouldings are a stain grade product where the final product shows off the characteristics of the wood, rather than hiding them behind paint and putty. Alder is a hardwood that can be milled with great detail.
Knotty Alder has similar characteristics to Alder though it shows more knots from where branches once protruded.
Poplar :
Answer:
Poplar mouldings are a hardwood moulding frequently used for paint grade applications but can be used for stain grade applications. Poplar mills very cleanly with very sharp detail, a characteristic of hardwoods. As a stain grade, poplar can be stained to match a variety of woods.
Douglas Fir :
Answer:
Douglas fir mouldings are used in situations requiring high durability and are often a first choice for stain grade products. In the area of durability, Douglas fir is used for closet pole and handrails. In the area of stain finishes, Douglas fir is often used in the manufacture of entry doors and is frequently chosen for use in door jambs to match the door. It is also offered in vertical grain mouldings for other stain grade applications.
Solid Oak :
Answer:
Oak mouldings are stain grade hardwood mouldings. They can be stained to match oak cabinetry or furniture. Oak is a hardwood that is very resistant to wear. Oak mouldings often add value to the home.
Medium Density Fiberboard :
Answer:
MDF mouldings are manufactured from medium density fiberboard. These mouldings are used in paint grade interior applications. The manufacturing process insures a uniform consistency without the imperfections that may exist in other paint grade products. MDF does not warp or split and does not expand and contract like natural wood species. MDF has a hard surface that will not damage easily and that will not show raised grain. MDF mouldings are usually primed and there is very little surface preparation required for finishing. They are less expensive than other wood paint grade mouldings, especially in larger architectural profiles.
Premium Primed Pine :
Answer:
Premium Primed pine is similar to fingerjointed pine except it has three coats of factory applied primer for an ultra-smooth surface, virtually eliminating visible joints and grain. Premium Primed pine is lighter and easier to cut and install than MDF. Apply a top coat of good quality acrylic or oil based paint for an elegant, professional finish.
The Premium Primed mouldings in our Signature Series are available in three distinct collections of matching bases, casings and crowns for customer convenience.
Fingerjointed Pine :
Answer:
Fingerjointed pine is a paint grade product. It is made by trimming defects from common grade lumber to make short lengths of
clear lumber. These pieces are then glued into longer lengths and manufactured into mouldings. This procedure helps reduce the tendency of the piece to twist or warp. They usually cost less than the stain grade equivalent because less expensive wood is used in the beginning of the process. Fingerjointed mouldings allow you to prime and paint with your own choice of oil, lacquer, or acrylic based products.
About Stain Grade Moulding :
Answer:
Stain Grade mouldings are made from solid wood. They can be stained and finished using a variety of methods to reveal rich color and wood grain patterns.
Mouldings in this section are arranged by usage and profile, and several sizes are often listed under each profile. Icons that appear beside each profile indicate availability in various species. Please refer to the section titled Types of Mouldings, Species and Finishes for more information on various species.
Stain grade mouldings are used both in historic homes with vintage decor, and in more contemporary homes to add warmth and a natural feel. Some usage examples shown throughout this catalog combine the use of stain grade mouldings with painted decor for an interesting effect.
Some solid wood mouldings such as corner guards, stops, and trim boards are sometimes painted for use in painted decor, where durability and strength are needed. Such applications include high traffic areas, doorways, and cabinetry.
Treated Exterior Grade Moulding :
Answer:
Advantage Plus Exterior grade mouldings have
the same features and benefits as Advantage Plus siding and trim boards. LOSP (Light organic solvent preservatives) are used to treat the wood making them safer to use and handle than other treated products. Finish with two coats of quality 100% acrylic paint. Note: Some patterns are also available in Western Red Cedar or Redwood.
When pre-primed material is cut during field application, the cut end must be field primed and sealed prior to installation. Nail holes should also be filled and preserved immediately after installation to prevent the uptake of moisture. Factory pre- primed surfaces should be painted within 30 days of installation
Use two topcoats of a top-quality acrylic latex paint. Acrylic latex paints remain flexible with age, thus stretching and shrinking with the wood and allowing some passage of water vapor. Finish coats or topcoats can be applied to broad surfaces by roller or spray.
About Primed Pine :
Answer:
Primed pine mouldings are a paint grade product made by trimming defects from common grade lumber to make short lengths of clear lumber. These pieces are then fingerjointed into longer lengths and manufactured into mouldings. This procedure helps reduce the tendency of the piece to twist or warp. A coat of primer is then applied by machine.
Final finishing requires applying one or two top coats of additional primer or paint as desired. Pre-priming at the mill is designed to be less expensive than painting by hand, and allows you to paint with your own choice of oil, lacquer, or acrylic based products.
Premium Primed Pine products have three coats of factory applied primer for an ultra-smooth surface, virtually eliminating visible joints and grain. No more than one finish coat of paint is needed in most cases.
Primed Pine, and Premium Primed Pine is lighter and easier to cut and install than MDF. They have
a tendency to hold sharper edges found in intricate moulding profiles and are less prone to chip than MDF mouldings. They can be used in areas of limited moisture such as bathrooms provided they are thoroughly primed and sealed on cut edges.
Primed pine mouldings usually cost less than the stain grade equivalent because less expensive wood is used in the manufacturing process.
The Premium Primed mouldings in our Signature Series are available in distinct collections of matching bases, casings and crowns for customer convenience.
About MDF Moulding :
Answer:
MDF mouldings are manufactured from medium density fiberboard. These mouldings are used in paint grade interior applications. They are finer and more dense than particle board materials that many people are more familiar with. Among the many reasons to use MDF are:
• Mostofthepopularmouldingprofilesare available in MDF.
• Themanufacturingprocessinsuresauniform consistency without the imperfections that may exist in other paint grade products.
• MDFdoesnotwarporsplitanddoesnot expand and contract like natural wood species.
• MDFhasahardsurfacethatwillnotdamage easily and that will not show raised grain.
• MDFmouldingsareprimedandthereis very little surface preparation required for finishing.
• MDFmouldingsarelessexpensivethanother wood paint grade mouldings. This is especially true in larger architectural profiles.
MDF should not be used where moisture is common. In high traffic areas it is best to avoid mouldings with sharp angles as MDF is slightly more prone to chip than wood mouldings. MDF mouldings may be used alongside wood mouldings in some cases where a certain look is desired.
Craftsman & Mission Styling Cues:
Answer:
Important styling cues of this era are rectangular shapes of beautifully grained or painted wood, with rounded or eased edges... and always cut and installed using precise carpentry!
P845PPR Additional details or embellishments when desired usually consistof some additional edging details, a cove, or a classically formed ogee used in a door pediment or crown. Architects, particularly in finer homes, chose to soften the impact of such a stark design on their clients
When remodeling a home in this style, paint finishes are often more practical and allow the use of MDF and Primed Pine mouldings. Natural wood mouldings in species such as Alder, Poplar, Douglas Fir or Oak are also attractive options
Victorian Styling Cues:
Answer:
The Victorian Era in the Western United States actually encompasses several styles: American Victorian, Queen Anne, Italianate, and others. Many of the famed San Francisco Victorians are actually of the Italianate style.
Victorian Era mouldings generally have more detail
and complexity, and rely less on the classic Greek and Roman forms. This reflected the zeal and grandeur of the industrial revolution. Industrialization made it possible to produce mouldings that were larger and had more detail. Transportation allowed abundant timber resources to be moved great distances for milling. The homeowners of this era, especially the growing middle classes, wished to reflect their status and wealth in the elaborate entry ways and public rooms of their homes.
Federal and Classical Influences ?
Answer:
After the wars of independence (1776 & 1812), Americans became more comfortable in their standing and assertive in their style. Columns, pilasters, and decorative friezes and ornaments were increasingly used on many wall treatments. Wainscotting began to appear in more rooms. Mouldings in the pre-Civil
War South gradually became more decorative as the society flourished. Wealthier plantation homes reflected both Classical and European styles.
Where do Moulding Styles Come From ?
Answer:
Many of the wood mouldings we have today have roots in the rich styles of Colonial America in the 1700’s. The early colonists brought with them elements of the popular Georgian styles from Europe. As their new democracy flourished, however, they developed a taste for newer architectural looks based on classic Greek and Roman forms.
Colonial trim tends to be simple yet elegant, reflecting the hand crafted production methods of the day. Many mouldings from this period are built-up using several mouldings, especially in rooms with higher ceilings where scale is important. The amount of detail and the overall level of built-up trim was also influenced by the person’s or institution’s place in society and, more often than not, what they could afford.
Whether you own a home of this style or just wish to recreate a historical look, a variety of mouldings are available to help you achieve your goals.
what is Finish Carpentry ?
Answer:
Finish carpentry refers to the final touches that make a house a home. Finish carpenters work on homes after the structure is fully built, insulated, wired, and plumbed. For this reason, finish carpenters can perform most of their work before or after the homeowner moves into a home. Many homeowners perform DIY finish carpentry in their own homes. However, as with most projects, a professional finishing carpenter can typically perform the work more quickly and professionally, albeit for a higher monetary cost.
is Shiplap good decor for interior home wall ?
Answer:
Yes today Many interior designers like to use it as decor inside the homes.
shiplap is a kind of wooden board that's often used for constructing sheds, barns, and other rustic buildings. Traditional shiplap has a rabbet (or groove) cut into the top and bottom, which allows the pieces to fit together snugly, forming a tight seal.
What is shiplap ?
Answer:
Shiplap is a type of wooden board used commonly as exterior siding in the construction of residences, barns, sheds, and outbuildings.
today is very popular use it inside homes as interior decor.
Is mold and Mould the same?
Answer:
"mold" is the US spelling, "mould" is the British English spelling. No other difference. Same applies for other meanings of mould/mold, i.e the fungus that grows on rotting substances, for example. I'm from upstate New Jersey and was schooled that 'mold' is the stuff that causes spoilage.
Is it Moulding or Molding ?
Answer:
Mold vs Mould. ... Mold is the American spelling for all senses of the word meaning, among other things, (1) a frame for shaping something, (2) to shape in a mold, and (3) any of various fungi that commonly grow on organic matter and are often associated with decay. Mould is the British spelling.
What is Top Cap ?
Answer:
Top Caps are used to form a pediment above door and/or window openings. They run horizontally either on top of mitered casings to give height to the opening or they run horizontally at the head jamb of an opening with casing dying into the 27/32" flat bottom.
What is Door Header ?
Answer:
Door Headers are used to form a pediment above door and/or window openings. They run horizontally either on top of mitered casings to give height to the opening or they run horizontally at the head jamb of an opening with casing dying into the 27/32" flat bottom. Door headers can be used in fireplace applications ( as wide casings or base )
What is Crown Moulding ?
Answer:
Crown Moulding are used where the wall joins the ceiling. These can be used alone and will reveal tremendous depth. Crown Moulding can also be built up using lineal moulding, Baseboard, Casings, Chair Rails, or Panel Moulding with taller ceilings.
Large Combination Details are two or more pieces of moulding installed together to create a unique, large detail.
Wha is Chair Rail ?
Answer:
Chair Rails are used approximately 30" to 40" from the floor, running horizontally to form a " wainscot" look. Chair Rail Moulding can also be used as panel moulding to form panels on walls or ceilings. For larger chair rails, use casings with backbands installed horizontally.
What Is Casing ?
Answer:
Casings are used to trim around doors and windows ( door moulding can show more mass than windows ). Casings can also be used as larger chair rails , or upper horizontal linear banding around rooms.
What is Baseboard ?
Answer:
Baseboards are used where the wall joins the floor. Baseboard is excellent details and with the addition of panel moulding, baseboards can be made taller creating larder baseboard or larger crown details.
Door details ?
Answer:
Look at the Image for door details :
what is Combo Screen Door ?
Answer:
Its a door use for Home interior or exterior , with window sliding Sash to up and down with screen keeps your home clean away from bugs.
What is the sash of a door?
Answer:
Permanent stationary muntins and bars separate the glass in a window or door sash to give the sash two or more lites of glass. A combination of frame and sash, hinged at the top of the vertical jambs which allows the unit to pivot from the top with the sash opening to the exterior of the building.
what is blinds between glass door inserts ?
Answer:
blinds between glass are sealed between two glass panels, so no dust or allergens can accumulate on your door blinds.
what is door( Panel ) and ( Sticking ) ?
Answer:
Panel & Sticking Profiles. The panel profile of an interior door provides another architectural element to the room. ... Sticking is a profile machined into the edges of stiles and rails, providing character & definition to the door.
What is Door ( Ovolo ) ?
Answer:
Ovolo is the design sticking
What is Door Frosted glass ?
Answer:
Frosted glass is produced by the sandblasting or acid etching of clear sheet glass. This creates a pitted surface on one side of the glass pane and has the effect of rendering the glass translucent by scattering the light which passes through, thus blurring images while still transmitting light.
What is Door White Laminated Glass ?
Answer:
White Laminated Glass. A plastic interlayer provides White Laminated glass with the appearance of sandblasted or etched glass. With this frosted look between two pieces of regular glass, both surfaces are smooth and easily cleaned.
what the type of hinge mostly use on exterior or Entry door ?
Answer:
hinge : 4" x 4" 1/4"-Radius Corner
what the type of hinge mostly use on interior door ?
Answer:
residential Hinge: 3-1/2 X 3-1/2" - 5/8" Radius Corner
what is the different between Madison and shaker-Door ?
Answer:
the different is the Sticking , Madison door made by Jeld-Wen the edge of the sticking is not square its Beveled and its available Hollow Core and Solid Core Only. the shaker door sticking is squared edge and solid Pine or any type of wood Not Available on Hollow Core.
the panel for Madison and shaker door is Flat.
What is Shaker Door ?
Answer:
Shaker doors is a feature a flat centre panel and square edges, with minimal detailing or profiling.
what is Door Glass ( Thermal ) ?
Answer:
Thermal = ( 3/4" Dual CLEAR IG INSULATED GLAZING. )
Same as ( IG ) just called in different word
what is Door ( Solid Core ) ?
Answer:
Solid core doors are solid from front to back. Made from wood byproducts, solid core doors are dense, heavy and withstand more punishment than hollow core doors. The typical solid core door is a mixture of wood particles glued together with heat, resins and hydraulic pressure to produce a uniform, consistent product. The most common solid core door is 1 3/8 inch for interior doors, and 1 3/4 inch for entryway doors.
What is Door ( Hollow Core ) ?
Answer:
A hollow door is a lightweight door used mainly as an interior door due to it's lack of security. Hollow core doors do not provide the same weight and feel as a solid core door, however they are a simple and affordable option that still manage to serve their general purpose.
what is moulding ?
Answer:
are used to decorate a room by lending their decorative patterns to enhance doorways , windows , ceiling, walls, etc. Moulding can be an extension of one's creative ideas or concepts giving an unlimited amount of uses to each and every item. each individual's ideas are unique and personal and can be an expression of one's own taste and style that lend a homes or office a special look and feel.
What is door glass ( IG ) ?
Answer:
3/4" Dual CLEAR IG INSULATED GLAZING.
What are the advantages of low E glass?
Answer:
Low-E glass has many advantages: The Low-E coating reflects heat back to its source so it helps your home stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. The coating won't scratch off because it is applied to the inside of the glass. It help protects against UV fading of any near by furniture.
What does low E glass mean?
Answer:
“Low-E” literally means low emissivity, which in turn means a surface that emits low levels of radiant heat. All surfaces reflect, absorb, and transmit heat. So, a Low-E coating reduces the amount of that heat transfer. When talking about replacement windows the term Low-E really applies to the glass being used.
What does ( privacy ) door knob or Handle mean?
Answer:
Privacy Door Knobs are generally used on bedrooms and baths. They are lockable but do not have a keyed cylinder. They can be unlocked with a generic tool that is provided.
what is a keyed Entry Door ?
Answer:
Keyed Entry Door Knobs & Levers. The keyed entry function is ideal for exterior doors. Keyed entry door locks have a keyed cylinder facing the outside of the home that can only be opened with a key and a thumbturn on the interior.
What's a dummy lever ?
Answer:
Full dummy - These sets are full-size door knobs or handlesets that have no mechanical latch mechanism. They are flush mounted and require no mortise, or hole, through the face of the door. Full dummy sets are used in certain decorative applications such as double doors, closet, pantry and utility space doors.
What is Handle ( Passage ) ?
Answer:
Passage - This is a lockset which has no locking function at all. Used anywhere a locking function is not needed such as closets or entrances to rooms where privacy is not an issue
what is WaterBarrier® Technology ?
Answer:
Five-year warranty, no overhang required
One-piece Medium Density Overlay (MDO) on the outside for the very toughest exposures – commonly used on concrete forms and street signs
Minimizes the possibility of stile and rail separation
Eliminates checking on the face of the door
Excellent durability and resists moisture absorption
Overlay has thermoset acrylic latex primer topcoat, resulting in superior paint application
Can use water or alkyd-based paints on finish
PVC glazing bead and bar components provide moisture resistance
Choose any species to match interior architecture
Available for virtually any door design
Simulated Divided Lite (SDL) for Exterior Doors ?
Answer:
Features a single glass unit with bars applied to the glass surface, providing the look of traditional True Divided Lite with improved performance. SDL construction is available for doors with insulated glass (IG).
True divided Lite (TDL) for Exterior and Interior Doors ?
Answer:
Features individual glass units divided by muntin bars. TDL construction is available for doors with IG or single glazed (SG).
What is Door for ADA ?
Answer:
ADA = "Americans with Disabilities Act".
What is Moulding ( MUL ) ?
Answer:
MDF Mouldings are particular style of Ultra-Light and made of with quality materials.
What is MDF moulding ?
Answer:
Medium Density Fiberboard Moulding (MDF Moulding) is a composite material made of wood fibers and resin formed by high pressure and heat processes. MDF Moulding components can be made into a variety of profiles for finishing and trimming residential and commercial interiors and cabinets.
How do you clean baseboards?
Answer:
Grab a stack of Magic Erasers (or whichever brand you prefer), a bucket of warm, soapy water (or vinegar and water) and simply swipe. Wring the sponge out well before you wipe so you don't leave too-damp boards to dry. If you don't have painted baseboards, substitute wood cleaner.
Is MDF good for baseboards?
Answer:
MDF, as molding, can be made to work in the same way. Priming and painting provide MDF with a thin protective shell. But it's mainly the wall behind the MDF baseboards that acts as its structural support. MDF baseboards on straight runs are nearly as strong as real wood baseboards.
What is a "finish" carpenter?
Answer:
A significant difference between the two crafts lies in that the framing work of rough carpenters inevitably gets covered up and goes unseen. Therefore, the work of rough carpenters does not need to be artistically precise or aesthetically pleasing. On the other hand, a finish carpenter's work is visible and seen by almost everybody in the house, so finish carpenters must use superior creative skill and excellent technical precision to ensure that their work displays the appropriate design and a beautiful appearance.
Finish carpenters must take exact measurements with tape or with their eyes, carefully cut wood with great precision, understand symmetry and be able to match colors, shapes, sizes and patterns.
A significant difference between the two crafts lies in that the framing work of rough carpenters inevitably gets covered up and goes unseen. Therefore, the work of rough carpenters does not need to be artistically precise or aesthetically pleasing. On the other hand, a finish carpenter's work is visible and seen by almost everybody in the house, so finish carpenters must use superior creative skill and excellent technical precision to ensure that their work displays the appropriate design and a beautiful appearance.
Finish carpenters must take exact measurements with tape or with their eyes, carefully cut wood with great precision, understand symmetry and be able to match colors, shapes, sizes and patterns.
what is primed mdf ?
Answer:
Medium density fiberboard, or MDF, is a composite wood product similar to particleboard; it's made out of wood waster fibers glued together with resinl heat, and pressure; MDF is appropriate for many applications, from cabinetry to moulding to shelving, because it is smoothe, uniform, and won't warp.
How far Do you deliver ?
Answer:
We deliver items to all cities in Southern California.
How to install bullnose crown moulding
Answer:
How to install bullnose crown moulding:
Depends on how "round" you want to make the corner and how good you are at making those cuts. You can cut the corner square - inside corners would be trimmed to fit the cove, outside corners are a typical 45* cut on each leg, the gap is then caulked. You can 45 the corner, the 45* piece will go across the inside/outside corner. You can buy special cove moulding pieces for the corners. Or you can "horse-tooth" the trim, making as many segment cuts as you like to go around the arc of the curve.
As for the angle of the cut, again that depends on the number of joints within the corner. Basically, take the degree of the angle of the corner - say 90*, and divide it by the number of joints times two, to make the change of direction
Examples:
90* with two pieces of trim = 90*/(1 joint x 2) = 45*
90* with three pieces of trim = 90*/(2 joints x 2) = 22.5*
And to save yourself some serious headaches and hassles, cut yourself some sample blocks of trim with the cuts you need to make for both inside and outside cuts and mark them accordingly. This way, there's no brain bending to figure out what angle to set the saw or how to lay the material into the saw for the proper cut, all you do is match the sample block to what you're trying to cut and set the saw to that.
Depends on how "round" you want to make the corner and how good you are at making those cuts. You can cut the corner square - inside corners would be trimmed to fit the cove, outside corners are a typical 45* cut on each leg, the gap is then caulked. You can 45 the corner, the 45* piece will go across the inside/outside corner. You can buy special cove moulding pieces for the corners. Or you can "horse-tooth" the trim, making as many segment cuts as you like to go around the arc of the curve.
As for the angle of the cut, again that depends on the number of joints within the corner. Basically, take the degree of the angle of the corner - say 90*, and divide it by the number of joints times two, to make the change of direction
Examples:
90* with two pieces of trim = 90*/(1 joint x 2) = 45*
90* with three pieces of trim = 90*/(2 joints x 2) = 22.5*
And to save yourself some serious headaches and hassles, cut yourself some sample blocks of trim with the cuts you need to make for both inside and outside cuts and mark them accordingly. This way, there's no brain bending to figure out what angle to set the saw or how to lay the material into the saw for the proper cut, all you do is match the sample block to what you're trying to cut and set the saw to that.
What is FLEXIBLE CROWN MOLDINGS?
Answer:
Flexible Crown Molding are specifically designed to allow installation around even extreme contours. They are used for curve corners, round corners or joints, Flex radius molding around columns, over arched windows, hugging curved walls. These flexible pieces have the same classical look and easy installation than other moldings due to their physical flexibility.
We do carry variety of Flexible Crown moulding. Not only crown, but also baseboard, trim, chair rail, panels, casing , etc. Our lower prices are ranging from $1.44 to $16 per linear foot.
What is basic procedure to place a crown moulding?
Answer:
Basic procedure to install crown moulding
STEP 1. First, Measure to determine how much molding you’ll need and then add 10 percent for waste.
STEP 2. Then, use a miter box and hand saw to cut the molding to size.
STEP 3. Glue and nail the molding into place with a nail gun. For thicker molding, leave a two-inch gap in between the existing molding and the molding you just added. For thinner molding, such as the type we’re used, try a four-inch gap.
STEP 4. Paint the new, old molding and the space in between the same color so that it looks like one continuous piece.
Note: If you have a more rounded molding, try adding two pieces of a squared-off molding, one to each side of the original rounded section.
Materials you will need are;
(1) crown molding, (2) glue, (3) laser level, (4) nail gun and nails, (5) paintbrush, paint and primer
STEP 1. First, Measure to determine how much molding you’ll need and then add 10 percent for waste.
STEP 2. Then, use a miter box and hand saw to cut the molding to size.
STEP 3. Glue and nail the molding into place with a nail gun. For thicker molding, leave a two-inch gap in between the existing molding and the molding you just added. For thinner molding, such as the type we’re used, try a four-inch gap.
STEP 4. Paint the new, old molding and the space in between the same color so that it looks like one continuous piece.
Note: If you have a more rounded molding, try adding two pieces of a squared-off molding, one to each side of the original rounded section.
Materials you will need are;
(1) crown molding, (2) glue, (3) laser level, (4) nail gun and nails, (5) paintbrush, paint and primer
How Can I remove old crown moulding from my room ceiling?
Answer:
It is easy. You can accomplish a clean removal without damage, if you take your time and cut through the caulking first. - Place the tip of your flat bar on the top edge of your crown molding, between the molding and your ceiling, and hit it with your hammer. This will drive your flat bar behind your molding. When the head of your flat bar is behind your molding, pry up with your flat bar. Your molding will begin to pull away from your ceiling. Repeat this process on the bottom edge of your molding, but pry down instead of up.
Move your ladder approximately 16-inches from where you began. Place the tip of your flat bar on the top edge of your crown molding and again, hit it with your hammer. Place your 4-inch putty knife in the gap before you pry out on your crown molding. Repeat this step on the underneath edge of your crown molding. Your putty knife will prevent you from gouging a hole in your wall or ceiling if you cannot see where the nails are. Nails should be driven or shot into a studs, but there could be nails in your crown molding that are not in studs.
Repeat all steps to completely remove all of your crown molding. You may need these tool to remove your crown moulding from ceiling. Eye Goggle, Step ladder, Utility knife, Stiff 4-inch putty knife, Flat bar, Hammer.
Remember - safety first.
Move your ladder approximately 16-inches from where you began. Place the tip of your flat bar on the top edge of your crown molding and again, hit it with your hammer. Place your 4-inch putty knife in the gap before you pry out on your crown molding. Repeat this step on the underneath edge of your crown molding. Your putty knife will prevent you from gouging a hole in your wall or ceiling if you cannot see where the nails are. Nails should be driven or shot into a studs, but there could be nails in your crown molding that are not in studs.
Repeat all steps to completely remove all of your crown molding. You may need these tool to remove your crown moulding from ceiling. Eye Goggle, Step ladder, Utility knife, Stiff 4-inch putty knife, Flat bar, Hammer.
Remember - safety first.
Can we buy real Douglas Fir moulding?
Answer:
Yes. Of course. We carry wide variety of moulding items made with real Douglas Fir. All types of crown, baseboard, panels, rails, dutch door and many more are available. Depending on purpose and project condition, Prices vary from $0.83 to $18.44 per linear foot. But our prices are lower than those at big name store such as Home deport, Lowe, etc ...
Please call 800-985-1844 (to us) for more details.
Please call 800-985-1844 (to us) for more details.
How much is cost to replace a baseboard?
Answer:
Basically, we offer baseboard with price lower than major stores such as Home Depot, Lowes, etc. The cheapest baseboard is $0.38 per linear foot (Base-Shoe PR300A FJ). The highest cost for premium base with broader width is a little higher as $1.89 per linear foot.(Base 381 MUL).
If you would like to add additional services such as (1) Adding paint on baseboard (2) In-House installation, those additional services are available at reasonable and affordable price.
If you want to learn more or have question,
please call us at - 800-985-1844
Our skilled sales staff , installers and designers are available to help you.
If you would like to add additional services such as (1) Adding paint on baseboard (2) In-House installation, those additional services are available at reasonable and affordable price.
If you want to learn more or have question,
please call us at - 800-985-1844
Our skilled sales staff , installers and designers are available to help you.
Definition of “moulding”
Answer:
The word "moulding" is widely-used in American terms for home improvement. Originally it descended from a British word "molding". "Moluding" is a piece of wood, plastic, stone, etc. that has been made into a particular shape to decorate the top or bottom of a wall, or a door, window, or piece of furniture.
How to Install Baseboard Molding: Step by Step
Answer:
How to Install Baseboard Molding: Step by Step
Step One: Collect materials and tools
Carpenters glue, Hammer or nail gun, Nail set, Circular saw, Compound miter saw, Coping saw, measuring tape, Stud Finder, 8d Finish nails
Step Two: Measure and Cut
Measure the number and length of pieces of baseboard, cap, and shoe molding needed to cover the sections of straight wall .
Step Three: Cut Baseboard Moulding
Cut Baseboard Moldings by a circular or miter saw to cut boards to proper length, allowing extra inches for miter cuts on baseboard pieces that meet at outside corners. Use a miter saw to cut 45-degree angles in trim pieces that will have mitered joints; use a coping saw to create coped joints for inside corners. For straight stretches of wall, cut a baseboard piece to reach from corner to corner. For runs longer than 5 feet, cut the pieces about 1/16 inch longer than the measurement.
Make sure baseboards that meet at outside corners are long enough to allow for miter cuts. Remove and mark each board's location on its backside; mark a corresponding number on the wall. Use a stud finder to find wall studs, and mark their position with a pencil.
Step Four: Install Baseboard
By Using nail gun or hammer, Place nails on Baseboard at a slight downward angle. Use a nail set to drive the heads below the wood surface and press tightly into position when nailed in place. If necessary, splice two end adjoining pieces (with 45-degree angle).
Step Five: Miter Corners
Press the coped end of the molding first, and then mark the miter location with the piece in place. Try to adjust or tighten miter angles slightly to put in place. If necessary, change miter angle slightly by placing a playing card between the miter sawfence and molding.
Step Six: Add Shoe Molding
Place shoe molding across lower edge of baseboard and cap molding to the top of the baseboards. Use nail or glue to put them in place. Flush them against the wall. Touch up nail holes with paint or putty. You're done.
Step One: Collect materials and tools
Carpenters glue, Hammer or nail gun, Nail set, Circular saw, Compound miter saw, Coping saw, measuring tape, Stud Finder, 8d Finish nails
Step Two: Measure and Cut
Measure the number and length of pieces of baseboard, cap, and shoe molding needed to cover the sections of straight wall .
Step Three: Cut Baseboard Moulding
Cut Baseboard Moldings by a circular or miter saw to cut boards to proper length, allowing extra inches for miter cuts on baseboard pieces that meet at outside corners. Use a miter saw to cut 45-degree angles in trim pieces that will have mitered joints; use a coping saw to create coped joints for inside corners. For straight stretches of wall, cut a baseboard piece to reach from corner to corner. For runs longer than 5 feet, cut the pieces about 1/16 inch longer than the measurement.
Make sure baseboards that meet at outside corners are long enough to allow for miter cuts. Remove and mark each board's location on its backside; mark a corresponding number on the wall. Use a stud finder to find wall studs, and mark their position with a pencil.
Step Four: Install Baseboard
By Using nail gun or hammer, Place nails on Baseboard at a slight downward angle. Use a nail set to drive the heads below the wood surface and press tightly into position when nailed in place. If necessary, splice two end adjoining pieces (with 45-degree angle).
Step Five: Miter Corners
Press the coped end of the molding first, and then mark the miter location with the piece in place. Try to adjust or tighten miter angles slightly to put in place. If necessary, change miter angle slightly by placing a playing card between the miter sawfence and molding.
Step Six: Add Shoe Molding
Place shoe molding across lower edge of baseboard and cap molding to the top of the baseboards. Use nail or glue to put them in place. Flush them against the wall. Touch up nail holes with paint or putty. You're done.
If we buy door or moulding from you, do you deliver to our home?
Answer:
Yes. We deliver to all cities in greater Los Angeles area in Southern California. Visit Our store
(or) Call us now - 800-985-1844 or 818-736-4397
Note: Free delivery with purchase of $700 or more or $45 if less than $700 purchase
Note: Free delivery with purchase of $700 or more or $45 if less than $700 purchase
How to Install Interior Door Trim (Do It Your Self)?
Answer:
How to Install Interior Door Trim (Do It Your Self)?
Follow these step-by-step instructions to install trim around an interior door.
Step 1 - Paint the Trim
With a rag, wipe the wood with wood conditioner, stain and polyurethane sealer, letting each coat dry before starting on the next layer. Alternatively, apply primer (paint), allow it to dry, and paint the trim in your chosen color.
Step 2 - Cut the Trim to Size
Use a tape measure to measure the area around the door (Image 1). Then, use a miter saw to cut the trim to those measurements, factoring in a 1/8" reveal on the doorway (Image 2). Cut the ends at 45-degree angles to fit around the door jamb.
Step 3 - Glue the Ends Together
Lay the trim on the floor in the shape of the door; apply wood glue to the cut side of the trim and fit the two sides together.
Step 4 - Attach the Trim
Drill a small pilot hole through the top of the trim (Image 1); sink a screw into the pilot hole (Pre-drilled hole). Then, use a finish nail gun to drive a finish nail into the opposite corner (Image 2). Nail the rest of the trim into place .
Follow these step-by-step instructions to install trim around an interior door.
Step 1 - Paint the Trim
With a rag, wipe the wood with wood conditioner, stain and polyurethane sealer, letting each coat dry before starting on the next layer. Alternatively, apply primer (paint), allow it to dry, and paint the trim in your chosen color.
Step 2 - Cut the Trim to Size
Use a tape measure to measure the area around the door (Image 1). Then, use a miter saw to cut the trim to those measurements, factoring in a 1/8" reveal on the doorway (Image 2). Cut the ends at 45-degree angles to fit around the door jamb.
Step 3 - Glue the Ends Together
Lay the trim on the floor in the shape of the door; apply wood glue to the cut side of the trim and fit the two sides together.
Step 4 - Attach the Trim
Drill a small pilot hole through the top of the trim (Image 1); sink a screw into the pilot hole (Pre-drilled hole). Then, use a finish nail gun to drive a finish nail into the opposite corner (Image 2). Nail the rest of the trim into place .
How to install window trim (DIY - Do it yourself method)?
Answer:
Here is How to Install Window Trim. You don't even need a tape measure!
(DIY - Do it yourself method)
Step 1: Mark the length all along.
Step 2: Get the spacing right.
Step 3: Check the fit, then cut to length.
Step 4: Glue and pin for a solid miter.
Step 5: Trim the other side.
Step 6: Fit the first bottom miter.
Step 7: Fit the opposite miter.
Step 8: Scribe for length.
Make sure you make final polishing touch.
Step 1: Mark the length all along.
Step 2: Get the spacing right.
Step 3: Check the fit, then cut to length.
Step 4: Glue and pin for a solid miter.
Step 5: Trim the other side.
Step 6: Fit the first bottom miter.
Step 7: Fit the opposite miter.
Step 8: Scribe for length.
Make sure you make final polishing touch.
What does Pre-hung Door mean?
Answer:
When it's time to replace an ailing door or perhaps upgrade to something new, for most applications your best bet is going to be a prehung door unit. A prehung door simply means that the door is already mounted onto the frame, which saves you all the work of mortising the frame and the door to receive the hinges. The door and the frame are also predrilled and mortised to receive the knob and strike, and exterior prehung doors also have the weatherstripping and sill attached.
While using prehung doors will greatly simplify your installation, you need to be certain that the door is correctly ordered to fit the opening. Home centers and lumberyards often have certain common sizes and styles of doors in stock, or you can special-order doors in a huge variety of styles and sizes to fit any opening in your home.
What does a Slab door mean
Answer:
Installing a slab door means you're responsible for attaching a frame and properly mounting the hardware and hinges. These doors are often cheaper than their pre-hung counterparts because they don't come with as many parts.
What is Moulding?
Answer:
Moulding is a process in which a wood strip of material with various profiles are installed to cover transitions between surfaces of a building or for decoration, renovation or home improvement. A "plain" moulding has right-angled upper and lower edges. A "sprung" moulding has upper and lower edges that bevel towards its rear, allowing mounting between two non-parallel planes (such as a wall and a ceiling), with an open space behind...
